Jalatlaco English
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◈ Seeking to decipher where the magic of this neighborhood, considered the most bohemian and coolest in Oaxaca, comes from, the traveler embraces the tranquility of its cobblestone streets; is seduced by the colorful walls of each colonial building and feels part of a warm community that seeks to preserve the roots of its culture; even better, he gets it by walking about 20 minutes (or 0,2 miles) from the historic center of the city.
◆ Visit the Temple of San Matías Jalatlaco.
◆ Identify the adobe and quarry house that is said to have belonged to Hernán Cortés.
◆ Take a portrait of yourself with the mural of the house from which the traditional comparsa of Jalatlaco originates.
◆ Visit the different art galleries.
◆ Enjoy a good coffee in one of the oldest coffee shops in the city.
◆ Buy an article of saddlery, an activity that was popularized during the Colony but is still kept by some of the inhabitants.
From October the 29th to November the 3rd, Jalatlaco experiences its most colorful and joyful days around the Day of the Dead. Residents take the opportunity to paint the facades of their houses and display their seven-story altars open to the public.
Here it is customary to have Samaritan Fridays where water is given away to passersby. At Xiguela Café, for example, a glass of flavored water is given away, you only have to bring your own glass, although the cocktail bar and craft beers (Hidalgo 202) invite you to sit
❖ Temple of San Matías Jalatlaco
The exact date of its construction is unknown, although it is estimated to date back to the beginning of the 17th century. It was first consecrated to Santa Catarina Mártir and from 1700 to San Matías.
The temple is very simple, without transept and dome, but its charm lies in the façade, in which indigenous people made their own interpretation of the Corinthian lintels.
Other attractions
❖ Jalatlaco streets:
Its cobblestone streets will captivate you with its galleries, cafes, and mezcal shops, and will make you travel back in time with adobe houses, lanterns and quarry, where in the midst of modernity, its history is preserved.
❖ Traditions and festivities
The renowned Comparsa de Muertos and its altars during the month of November are a source of pride and admiration.
❖ Walking without hurry
The real charm of Jalatlaco lies in its streets and alleys, almost all of which are cobbled. So the invitation is to walk and walk without any hurry, and discover the stories behind each door or gate.
❖ Admire the murals
Jalatlaco is distinguished by the colour of its façades, but also by the murals that give the neighbourhood its distinctive personality. A must: the mural painted by Rolando Martínez depicting the Day of the Dead festivities on the corner of Hidalgo and Aldama.
❖ Gallery-hopping
Art is literally around every corner. Going from gallery to gallery allows you to get to know the different cultural expressions that converge in this city, some with deep roots and others with long arms to the world.
❖ Day of the Dead
Day of the Dead is the most awaited festivity in Oaxaca, with tamales, yolk bread, and hot chocolate, the favourite food of anyone born “and dead” around here. Jalatlaco is no exception, as the traditional parade of Jalatlaco goes through the streets filling the neighbourhood with music and joy, and it is also when an altar contest is held that calls everyone to this area. Jalatlaco is painted in cempasúchil orange and shows its warmth through candlelight.
Christmas also provides an excuse to decorate the main street of the neighbourhood with thousands of lights, and at 7 p.m. on the night of December 24th, the Christmas Eve Calenda begins to announce to everyone the birth of the baby Jesus, a tradition in which the majority of the neighbourhood’s residents participate and to which more and more people from outside come.
There are plenty of reasons to fall in love with Jalatlaco.
One walk is enough to make you want to come back again and again.
